
CRF9-2 link shown above.
*Inquiry from Nick.
From:
Nick B.
Subject:
2009 Honda CRF450R
Which
linkage would you recommended for me I am 5’ 11” and intermediate advanced
rider the 7/8th or the 1.6”? and which linkage is similar to the
pro circuit linkage?
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Nick,
The
CRF9-2 is closest to the Pro Ckt. link and would be recommended for supercross/motocross.
It drops the rear about 3/8th inch farther but will work about the same
if you use 3.5" of rear race sag rather than the 3.9" that Pro Ckt. recommends
with their link. The CRF9-3 link is more for the max lowering with
the plushest ride, but keep in mind the 09 CRF450R is on the fine edge
of supercross design and has too much trail for most other types of riding
without going to more triple clamp and/or front axle offset to reduce the
trail. Here is the URL to a couple articles for more info. http://www.tootechracing.com/Too%20Tech%20Hidden%20aspects%20of%20trail.htm
http://www.tootechracing.com/too_tech_review.htm
Thanks
for your inquiry and please let us know if we can help with anything.
Norm
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Installation Instructions
1)
Raise the motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel
is just slightly off the ground. Remove the two 17 mm nuts and flat
washers (front bolt nut is on the right, the rear bolt nut is on the left)
that hold the stock “H” link to the rocker and the engine cradle. *If you
have the Pro-Moto Billet side stand the side stand/mount with the left
foot peg must be removed before the front link mounting bolt with the chain
roller can be removed. Push the front mounting bolt out the left
side first, then push the rear mounting bolt out the right side.
*The swing arm may need to be raised slightly to allow the first bolt to
slide out freely.
2) The new
links come with only the bearings and seals, so install the center
sleeve & both
step washers (flat side out) from your old
OEM link into the new
KoubaLink. Install the new link on the bike
(rear mounting bolt first) by pushing the mounting bolt in from the right
side. You will have to raise the swing arm to align the front mounting
holes and then push the mounting bolt with the chain idler in from the
left side. Be sure the 90 degree grease fitting on the link is facing down
and the engine breather hose is centered inside the clevis in front of
the link's cross tube. *Left link engraving will be upside down and
back wards, right side will be readable left to right. Grease the
fitting now as sometimes tightening the mounting bolt nuts can seal the
bearings too tight to allow the air to escape when pumping the grease in.
3) Install
the washers and 17 mm nuts on the mounting bolts and torque to 35 lbs-ft.
4) For the
best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement of the
rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.5" (CRF9-2
link) and 3.25” (CRF9-3 link) with rider in full riding gear, standing
on the pegs. If the link is used for lowering purposes ONLY, rear
race sag can be set at 108 mm/4.25 inches. The easiest way we have
found to adjust the rear spring preload is use a long punch to loosen the
top jam nut from the right side, grasp the spring at the bottom from the
left side and turn the spring and the preload nut at the same time.
**You may have to put some lube on the shock threads to allow the nut to
turn freely. Turning the spring/nut "clockwise" increases the preload
and decreases the sag. **Do not forget to tighten the jam nut with
the punch after setting the sag.
5) Loosen
the triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes up until there is
1/2” showing above the top triple clamp including the thickness of the
fork cap with the CRF9-2 link and 1” showing above with the CRF9-3 link.
*Do not over torque the triple clamp bolts. (14 ft. lbs. lower, 17
ft. lbs. upper) For additional lowering of the front, the bars can
be spaced up by installing a washer of 1/4" max thickness on top of the
flanged washer above the top rubber mounts. This will allow the forks
to be slid up farther but is not recommended unless you require the quicker
steering as sliding the fork tubes up farther could allow the tire to hit
the fender when the forks near bottoming. *Disclaimer: Raising
or lowering the rear more than the front can change the geometry and could
affect the handling, so be careful out there.
If you like
what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you
do not, please tell us. We can be contacted at our email address
below and are always interested in your questions or comments.
Norm Kouba
Email:
njkouba@ix.netcom.com