The new link comes with only the bearings and seals, so install the center
sleeve & the two step washers (flat side out) from your old OEM link
into the new Koubalink. Install the new link (grease fitting facing down)
on the bike (front mounting bolt first) by pushing the mounting bolts in
from the left side. Make sure all the vent hoses are inside the front mounting
brackets and in front of the link before you line up the mounting holes
of the bracket and link. You will have to raise the swing arm to align
the rear mounting hole with the link eyes.
After installing the KoubaLink, check that the grease fitting is facing
down. *Left link engraving will be upside down and back wards, right side
will be readable left to right. Install the 17 mm nuts & torque to
For the best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement
of the rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.50”
to 3.9” with rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. Slide
the fork tubes up until they barely clear the bottom of the stock bars.
That should leave approx. 1" of the fork tube showing above the top of
the triple clamp. *Do not over torque the triple clamp bolts. (12 ft. lbs.
lower, 14 ft. lbs. upper) If the links are for lowering purposes
ONLY, sag can be set at 100mm/3.90", and will lower the rear 1” with
the KLXR2 link and 1.5" with the KLXR3. The easiest way we have found to
adjust the rear spring preload is to use a long punch to loosen the top
jam nut from the right side and grasp the spring at the bottom and turn
the spring and the nut at the same time. **You may have to put some lube
on the shock threads to allow the nut to turn freely. Turning the
spring/nut "clockwise" increases the preload and decreases the sag. **Do
not forget to tighten the jam nut with the punch after setting the sag.
For additional lowering of the front, the handlebars can be spaced up by
installing a washer of 1/4" max thickness on top of the flanged washer
above the top rubber mounts. This will allow the forks to be slid
up farther but is not recommended unless you require quicker steering.
Remember, lessening the rear race sag or sliding the fork tubes up will
make the steering quicker and the opposite will slow the steering. Disclaimer:
Lowering the rear more than the front can change the geometry and could
affect the handling.
you like what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone,
if you do not, please tell us. We can be contacted at our email address
below and are always interested in your questions or comments.
Chart Below Shows
Rear Lowering Amounts For Our KXF3/KLXR2, CRF3/KLXR3 & CRF4 Lowering
amounts are measured straite up from the center of the rear axle with the
in the forward part
of the adjustment range or as they came from Honda/Kawasaki.)
lowering links are "only"
recommended for the 2010-11 KX450F as
they will cause rubbing and geometry problems on other models and are marginal
on the 2010-11 KX450F. Keep in mind they are for the maximum lowering
and still may cause some problems. :-( **All CRF3 & CRF4
links require you use the 2 seals from your stock Kawasaki link as the
CRF seals are 1 mm smaller ID.
Rear Lowering amounts for above link PN's.
1.75" N/R (Spring rubs swingarm)
1.50" N/R (Spring rubs swingarm)
1.875" N/R *Spring rubs swingarm
2.0" N/R *Spring
rubs the swingarm.
* NR = Not recommended