KoubaLink.com

*Please Note: We now have available 2 lengths of the KTM690 links which are listed above.  We have also shortened the the "KTM8" link slightly so as not to allow the tire to bottom on the fuel tank as easily. The tire still may touch if bottomed very hard and/or are running the large knobby tires with this "KTM8-2" link.  The link with KTM8-2 engraved on the sides are the new shorter ones and replace the old "KTM8" link which is no longer available from us.   We also have radiused both the "KTM8-1" and "KTM8-2" links so the outer edges of the bearing end should not interfere with any weld left inside the front mounting clevis.  See note below.

**Note: A couple of the 690 owners reported having found some extra weld inside of the link's front mounting clevis that hits the outside edge of the bearing end of the KoubaLink and may not allow the mounting bolt to align.  If that is the case we recommend filing that extra weld  smooth with the rest of the weld, but if it is difficult to get too, then the outside edge of 
the KoubLink can be radiused slightly to get the required clearances.  Please email us if you have any questions and we would surely appreciate any feedback on this.  Thanks.
Norm

 
1) Raise the motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is just slightly off the ground.  Remove both foot peg mounts with the side stand and rear master cylinder still connected by removing the one 19 mm headed bolt (T50 torque head) and the two 10 mm headed bolts (T40 torque head) on each side.  Remove one of the 19 mm nuts from the rear link mounting bolt and push the bolt out the opposite side.  The swing arm may have to be raised slightly to allow the mounting bolt to slide out freely. Then remove the 10 mm headed bolt and flat washer from the front link mounting pin and push it out the opposite side.  The stock link should now come out the bottom. 

2) Install the new link on the bike (grease fitting facing down) by pushing the front mounting bolt/pin back thru the mount and the link.  *Front mounting bolt is the pin that takes the two 10 mm headed bolts and washers to hold it in place. Next rotate the rear of the link up until the link and rocker holes align and push the rear link mounting bolt thru. You will have to raise the swing arm slightly to align the holes.  **Left side link engraving will be up side down, right side will be readable left to right.  Install the 19 mm nut on the rear mounting bolt and torque to 60 lb-ft.  Be sure to install the 10 mm headed bolts with washers on the ends of the front link mounting pin and torque them to approx 14 lb-ft., you may need to hold the opposite end bolt to keep the pin from turning.  Pump some grease into the link grease fitting now so you do not forget.  You should now be ready to put the foot peg mounts, etc. back on.  Be sure the rubber grommets on the skid plate are pushed all the way into the foot pegs mounts before installing the foot peg mounts. 

3) For the best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement of the rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) between 3.25"- 3.50” with rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. *The easiest way we have found to adjust the rear spring preload is to use a square ended punch to loosen the top jam nut, then grasp the spring at the bottom and turn the spring and the preload nut at the same time. To change the front, loosen the front fork triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes up, the clamps may need to be spread slightly after loosening the clamp bolts to allow the tubes to slide. We recommend only sliding the tubes up until there is .750” showing above the top triple clamp not counting the thickness of the rebound clicker knob. Be sure both tubes are set exactly the same. They can be slid up farther until they almost touch the underside of the handle bars if desired.  That should lower the front about 1” but may make it turn too quickly and cause some instability.   We do not recommend sliding the fork tubes up farther by using bar risers, etc., because that may allow the tire to hit the fender when the forks are bottomed.  *Do not over torque the triple clamp bolts.  (12Nm/9 lbs-ft lower, 17Nm/12.75 lbs-ft upper) 

4) If the link is used for lowering purposes ONLY, rear race sag can be set at 100mm/ 3.90" and will lower the rear 1" with the KTM8-1 link and 1 5/8” with the KTM8-2 link.  Disclaimer:  Lowering the rear more than the front can change the geometry and could affect the handling.  Lessening the rear sag and/or sliding the front fork tubes up will make it turn quicker but be less stable on the straits and visa versa. 

If you like what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you do not, please tell us.  We can be contacted at our email address below and are always interested in your questions or comments.

Norm 
Email:  njkouba@ix.netcom.com
 

            Ordering information and pricing can be found on our ORDER FORM.