1) Raise the motorcycle with a
bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is just slightly off the
ground. Remove both foot peg mounts with the side stand and rear
master cylinder still connected by removing the one 19 mm headed bolt (T50
torque head) and the two 10 mm headed bolts (T40 torque head) on each side.
Remove one of the 19 mm nuts from the rear link mounting bolt and push
the bolt out the opposite side. The swing arm may have to be raised
slightly to allow the mounting bolt to slide out freely. Then remove the
10 mm headed bolt and flat washer from the front link mounting pin and
push it out the opposite side. The stock link should now come out
2) Install the new link on the bike
(grease fitting facing down) by pushing the front mounting bolt/pin back
thru the mount and the link. *Front mounting bolt is the pin that
takes the two 10 mm headed bolts and washers to hold it in place. Next
rotate the rear of the link up until the link and rocker holes align and
push the rear link mounting bolt thru. You will have to raise the swing
arm slightly to align the holes. **Left side link engraving will
be up side down, right side will be readable left to right. Install
the 19 mm nut on the rear mounting bolt and torque to 60 lb-ft. Be
sure to install the 10 mm headed bolts with washers on the ends of the
front link mounting pin and torque them to approx 14 lb-ft., you may need
to hold the opposite end bolt to keep the pin from turning. Pump
some grease into the link grease fitting now so you do not forget.
You should now be ready to put the foot peg mounts, etc. back on.
Be sure the rubber grommets on the skid plate are pushed all the way into
the foot pegs mounts before installing the foot peg mounts.
3) For the best performance, set
the race sag (amount of vertical movement of the rear axle FROM no weight
to bike weight plus rider weight) between 3.25"- 3.75” with rider in full
riding gear, standing on the pegs. *The easiest way we have found to adjust
the rear spring preload is to use a square ended punch to loosen the top
jam nut, then grasp the spring at the bottom and turn the spring and the
preload nut at the same time. To change the front, loosen the front fork
triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes up, the clamps may need
to be spread slightly after loosening the clamp bolts to allow the tubes
to slide. We recommend only sliding the tubes up until there is .750” showing
above the top triple clamp not counting the thickness of the rebound clicker
knob. Be sure both tubes are set exactly the same. They can be slid up
farther until they almost touch the underside of the handle bars if desired.
That should lower the front about 1” but may make it turn too quickly and
cause some instability. We do not recommend sliding the fork
tubes up farther by using bar risers, etc., because that may allow the
tire to hit the fender when the forks are bottomed. *Do not over
torque the triple clamp bolts. (12Nm/9 lbs-ft lower, 17Nm/12.75 lbs-ft
4) If the link is used for lowering
purposes ONLY, rear race sag can be set at 100mm/ 3.90" and will lower
the rear 1" with the KTM8-1 link, 1 5/8” with the KTM8-2 link & 3/8"
with the KTM8-Dakar link. The rear lowering amounts for all
the links that fit the KTM690 Enduro's are listed below with KoubaLink
= 1/4" rear lowering.
= 3/8" rear lowering.
= 1 " rear lowering.
HL701-2 = 1 3/8" rear lowering.
= 1 5/8" rear lowering
the rear more than the front can change the geometry and could affect the
handling. Lessening the rear sag and/or sliding the front fork tubes
up will make it turn quicker but be less stable on the straits and visa
If you like what the KoubaLink does
for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you do not, please tell us.
We can be contacted at our email address below and are always interested
in your questions or comments.
Ordering information and pricing
can be found on our ORDER