1) Raise the
motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is just
slightly off the ground. Remove the two 17 mm nuts that hold the
“H” link to the rocker and the engine cradle and push the bolts out the
left side/front mounting bolt first. The lower chain roller comes
out with the front bolt. **If you have the Pro-moto Billet side stand,
it must be removed before the front link mounting bolt can be removed.
RMZ3 link shown above.
2) The new
links come with only the bearings and seals, so install the center
sleeve & the two step
washers (flat side out) from your old
OEM link into the new Koubalink. Install the new link (grease fitting facing
down) on the bike (rear mounting bolt first) by pushing the mounting bolts
in from the left side.
Make sure all the vent hoses are inside the front mounting bracket and
in front of the link before you line up the mounting holes of the bracket
and link. You will have to raise the swing arm to align the front mounting
holes with the link eye.
3) After installing
the KoubaLink, check that the grease fitting is facing down. *Left link
engraving will be upside down and back wards, right side will be readable
left to right. Install the 17 mm nuts & torque to 35 lbs-ft.
4) For the
best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement of the
rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.25” to
3.50” with rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. Slide
the fork tubes up until they barely clear the bottom of the stock bars.
That should leave approx. 3/8" showing below the index line on the fork
tubes. *Do not over torque the triple clamp bolts. (14 ft. lbs. lower,
17 ft. lbs. upper) If the links are for lowering purposes ONLY, sag
can be set at 100mm/3.90", and the rear will be lowered by 1.5” on the
05 model and 1.75" on the later models. The easiest way we have found
to adjust the rear spring preload is to use a long punch to loosen the
top jam nut from the right side and grasp the spring at the bottom and
turn the spring and the nut at the same time. **You may have to put some
lube on the shock threads to allow the nut to turn freely. Turning
the spring/nut "clockwise" increases the preload and decreases the sag.
**Do not forget to tighten the jam nut with the punch after setting the
5) For additional
lowering of the front, the handlebars can be spaced up by installing a
washer of 1/4" max thickness on top of the flanged washer above the top
rubber mounts. This will allow the forks to be slid up farther but
is not recommended unless you require quicker steering. Remember, lessening
the rear race sag or sliding the fork tubes up will make the steering quicker
and the opposite will slow the steering. Disclaimer: Lowering the rear
more than the front can change the geometry and could affect the handling.
If you like
what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you
do not, please tell us. We can be contacted at our email address
below and are always interested in your questions or comments.
Copyright 2015 KoubaLink