We build 3 lengths of the
KoubaLinks for the 1995-up KDX200/220. These are identified and engraved
KDX1, KDX2, and KDX3. We also build 4 lengths for the 1994-up KLX250/300;
KLX2, KLX3 and KLX4 links.
On the KDX200/220 the KDX1 links
are primarily for aggressive riders that want better performance
from their rear suspension. The KDX3 links are more for lowering purposes
for lighter and not so aggressive riders. The KDX2 links fall somewhere
in between. The KLX2-KLX4 links perform basicly the same on the KLX250/300.
The KLX2 link being the shortest with the least amount of lowering.
After the installation of any of
our longer links on the KDX's or KLX's, we recommend changing the race
sag (amount of vertical travel of the rear axle from no weight to bike-weight
plus rider weight) to 3 inches versus Kawasaki's recommended 100mm (approx.
3.9 inches). This allows the travel to start out from a plusher (more leverage)
position of the suspension arc and still maintain the same laden height
and geometry with the KDX1 links.
The installation instructions that
come with the Kouba Links have the amounts the 3 different KDX and KLX
links will lower the rear if the 3.9 inches of race sag is used. (lowering
amounts are also listed on our ORDER
FORM.) From these amounts and the sag used, you
can determine how much the front should be lowered if the stock geometry
Example: If the links you have chosen
are the KDX2's, they will lower the rear of the KDX's by 1.625 inches if
the 3.9 inches of sag is used, thus the front would also need to be lowered
approx. 1.625 inches to stay close to the stock geometry. If the race sag
is set at 3 inches rather than 3.9 inches, then the front would only need
to be lowered .525 inches to maintain the stock geometry. We now have only
lowered the laden (bike weight plus rider weight) rear height .525 inches,
but the no weight rear height would still be 1.625 inches lower.
When the KLX2 and KLX3 links are
used on the KLX250/300, they should not require anthing more than setting
the rear sag (to 3.9 inches) and sliding the forks up until they almost
touch the underside of the bars because of the lesser amounts of rear lowering.
The KDX3 and KLX4 links are for the maximum lowering. ***Sliding
the fork tubes up farther than when they touch the under side of the handle
bars with the stock mounts is not recommended and may allow the front tire
to hit the fender when fully compressed. **We recommend lessening the rear
sag even more if quicker steering is required (which does take away
from the rear laden lowering amounts) rather than spacing the bars up to
allow the fork tubes to be slid up farther.
The KDX/KLX is an excellent bike
for ISDE, enduro, and trail riding with its stock geometry, but if more
open high speed terrain is in the majority, then you may want to consider
setting the rear a little lower and/or setting the front a little higher
than stock. Remember if the front pushes, most likely the bike is too high
in the front and/or too low in the rear. If the front knifes or turns too
quickly, then the opposite may be the cause.
Max. weight recommendations for
the KDX200/220 with the stock 5.0KG/mm rear spring below.
Stock Links/4 race sag = Max. weight
KDX1 Links/3 race sag = Max.
weight 210 lbs.
KDX2 Links/3 race sag = Max.
weight 170 lbs.
KDX3 Links/3 race sag = Max.
These weights are just a guideline
and are subtracted from as the race sag is increased and/or riding speeds
To convert 5.0 kg's/mm to lbs./inch,
multiply by 56 = 280 lbs./inch.
The KLX250/300 seems to work fine
with the stock spring with the KLX2 or KLX3 links for most weight riders
but will make the rear plusher and may bottom easier, but does take out
some of the rear harshness on the roots, rocks, etc.