Motorcycle Suspension Components
with products available from Kientech Engineering
What are the Differences in the 3 lengths of the DRZ400/ KLX400 KoubaLinks?
We now build 3 different lengths for the 2000-up DRZ400/E/S and the 2003 KLX400. 3 different lengths are also available for the Suzuki DR350/S/SE, and the Kawasaki 95-up KDX200/220 and are similar in the performance and lowering to the DRZ links.
The only difference in the three lengths for the DRZ400 and others is the actual eye to eye length with the DRZ1's being the shortest but longer than the stock links. The DRZ1's will lower the rear 3/4 inches if the Suzuki recommend 3.9 inches of race sag is used. We recommend 3.25 inches of race sag with the DRZ1 links for the best performance. With the 3.25 inches of rear sag, rear height is 3/4 inches lower only without any weight on the rear wheel, but the laden geometry and seat height is the same as the stock links with 3.9 inches of sag.
The DRZ2 links will lower the rear 1 1/8 inches using the stock race sag, (3.9") and are a happy median between the 1's and 3's. The DRZ3's are mainly for maximum lowering purposes and may not be the best for very aggressive riders, but are still worlds better than just loosening the rear spring preload until the desired ride height is obtained. All three lengths are longer than stock and the ride height is still determined by the amount of race sag; just the starting and ending points of the swingarm arc are different. They also put more leverage on the rear spring and make the rear more compliant on the small stuff but may require a heavier rear spring to help prevent bottoming if a rider is very aggressive.
If a rider is bottoming with the DRZ1 links and 3.25 inches of race sag then we expect he/she was also bottoming with the stock links using 3.9 inches of race sag and would require a heavier spring with the stock setup also, just a different rate to go with the KoubaLinks.
Lowering the front: The front fork tubes on the DRZ400 can only be slid up approx. 3/4 inches before the top fork tube cap comes in contact with the bottom of the handlebar. To be able to slide these tubes up an additional 3/4 inches, another set of top handlebar mounting clamps (bar risers) can be installed under the handlebars and fastened with 3/4 inch longer bolts. This results in a lowering of the front a total of 1.4 inches over stock and is about the maximum before the front tire could contact the fender. The alternative to this is to put a top out spacer inside the forks, cut the springs shorter, and reduce the total travel. The height changes required to the front are determined by the rear sag setting, length of links, and rider preference. The stock geometry is not always the best for all riders and conditions. Also keep in mind the key switch mounting bracket on the "E" & "S" models require a modification or relocation to allow the fork tubes to be slid up more than about a 1/4 inch without the bar risers.
The best advice we can give is set the bike up for you, and not for someone else.
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