2011-up KTM 250SX-F/XC-F/350SX-F/XC-F/450SX-F & 2012-up
125SX/XC, 150SX/XC, 250SX/XC, & 300XC two strokes.
link assembly PN's: 7720 40830 4401, 7770 40830 4401 or 7900 40830 4401
KoubaLink PN's: KTM11-1R, KTM11-1, KTM11-2, & KTM11-3.
*These links will not
fit the linkless style rear suspensions.
installed pictures on a 2011 KTM350XC-F scroll to the bottom of this page.
KoubaLink Shown Above
KTM11-1R link (Lowers the rear 3/8") KTM11-1 link shown above
(Lowers the rear 3/4") The KTM11-2 link is slightly longer and will
lower the rear 1 1/4".
KTM11-2 link requires 040" filing on the swing arm tunnel and/or spring
for clearance. See step 2 on the installation instructions below
and the pictures at the bottom of the page.
lowering amounts are 3/8"
less on each link shown above for the 2015
and the 2014 450SX-F Factory Edition as the stock link is longer from the
factory. The 2015 special edition SX's have a longer link than the
2015 models and all the 2016-up KTM125's-450's have the new style frame
and use the longer stock links.
down to the chart at the bottom of the page for lowering amounts for all
the year models.
Raise the motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel
is just slightly off the ground. Remove the 10 mm headed bolt on
the left end of the front link mounting bolt and remove the chain slider,
then remove the two 19 mm nuts from the mounting bolts on the right side
that hold the “H” link to the rocker and the engine cradle. Push
the bolts out the left side, rear mounting bolt first. **350"XC"
front mounting bolt (17 mm headed) comes out right side after removing
the brake pedal idler mounting bolt (T40 or 7/32" allen) to allow the master
cylinder push rod to be moved out of the way. The chain slider on
the XC is mounted to the side stand mount rather than the front mounting
bolt. The swingarm may need to be raised slightly to allow the rear link
mounting bolt to slide out easily.
2) The new
KoubaLink comes with only the bearings and seals, so install the center
sleeve from the bearing end of your OEM
link into the KoubaLink. Be sure
to put some grease on the new KoubaLink bearings before the sleeve is installed.
Install the new link on the bike (front mounting bolt first) by pushing
the mounting bolts in from the left side. (front mounting bolt on the XC
model is installed from the right) You will have to raise the swing arm
slightly to align the rear mounting holes. If you have the KTM11-2
KoubaLink then you need to file either the swingarm tunnel and/or the spring
& bottom spring mount approx. .040" for spring clearance when
the swing arm is fully extended. **You can turn the rear spring so the
2nd coil from the bottom is facing back to get the most clearance but then
if you change the sag later and forget to turn it for the most clearance
it will rub the swing arm tunnel. :-(
3) After installing
the KoubaLink, be sure the grease fitting is angled downward. *Left
link engraving will be upside down, right side will be readable left to
right. Install the 19 mm mounting bolt nuts and torque to 45 lbs-ft.
The rear mounting bolt head does not have the locking extrusion on the
KoubaLink to hold it from turning. You can use a 21 mm open end wrench
or an adjustable spanner to hold it when tightening the nut. Be sure
to replace the front chain slider on the left end of the link's front mounting
bolt on the SX models.
4) For the
best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement of the
rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.5" with
rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. If you have the
KTM11-1R link then race sag is set at 3.75" & fork tube position
to be determined by the track conditions. With the KTM11-1 link,
set to 3.5", the stock fork position should be fine set at the 2nd
index line on the fork tube, if quicker steering is required then the rear
race sag can be lessened and/or the fork tubes can be slid up a max. of
1/4" or until there is .750" showing above the top triple clamp.
For the KTM11-2 links we recommend sliding the fork tubes up until
they barely clear the bottom of the stock bars unless you are running less
than the 3.5"of rear race sag. That should leave about 3/8" showing below
the 2nd index line. Do not over torque the triple clamp pinch bolts.
(9 lbs-ft lower, 12.5 lbs-ft. upper) The easiest way we have found
to adjust the rear spring preload/sag is loosen the shock's preload pinch
clamp with a 4 mm allen wrench from the right side, then grasp the
spring at the bottom and turn the spring and the preload nut at the same
time. **You may have to put some lube on the shock threads to allow
the nut to turn freely. Turning the preload nut with the proper tool is
always best but if your careful (preload nut is made of some type of plastic
and is very easy to damage) you can use a blunt
flat bladed screwdriver and a small mallet if you are unable to turn the
preload nut with the spring. Turning the spring/preload nut "clockwise"
increases the preload and decreases the sag. **Do not forget to tighten
the shock's preload pinch clamp after setting the sag.
5) Keep in
mind that the less rear race sag you have the plusher it will be
on the small stuff and the more travel you will have remaining as you are
riding in a less progressive part of the travel. The
Euro spec. SX bikes have a 4 mm longer rear shock, so assuming the forks
are the same length we would not recommend sliding the fork tubes up as
much on those.
Lowering the rear more than the front can change the geometry and could
affect the handling, so be careful out there.
If you like
what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you
do not, please tell us. We can be contacted at our email address
below and are always interested in your questions or comments.
Ordering info. and pricing can be
found on our ORDER